Haldun Bora, Burcak, Mustafa, Suna, Meltem Soner
Serkan Elif
15th May
24th May - Photo: Serhan Pocan
15th May
Panoramic view from the top of the Everest, 24th May - Photo: Mustafa Cihan
Latest News
May 10th, 2006
Advanced Base Camp
ImageIt was the ends of the February, our friend Ebru, the Corporate Relations Manager of Petrol Ofisi, introduced us to Jan Nahum. We explained him our Everest project. Our astonishment was getting greater gradually as our conversation continued. Jan Nahum’s interest in mountaineering, his knowledge about the Everest climbs and the most important of all, his enthusiastic attitude –at least as much as our enthusiasm- towards our project impressed us a lot. With a fast and harmonious way of working, we became a big team in a very short period of time. We did not have any difficulties in building up a common discourse with Petrol Ofisi and made a list of goals. Now, when we look back, at this point, May 10, 2006, at 6400 meters, we see that we have achieved most of these goals.

We said,

The departure of a team from Turkey to the highest point of the world is a success. We did succeed to depart at the 27th of March with a climbing team of 10 people, a camp manager and a person responsible for the documentary film by completing all the feverish preparations.

The expeditions named by the country name are very prestigious at the Everest base camps since more than a century. Since the April, we both made very good friends and did become a team to be heeded and followed with our presence and the relationships we built at the base and the advanced base camps. We made the name of the Everest Team of Turkey known among tens of other teams.

To climb up to the highest mountain of the world needs both good physical and mental performance. We said that we came as a team and will climb as a team and whatever the result is, we will return as a team. We did not give up our word up to this point and did succeed to be a strong and devoted Turkish Team in the eyes of other climbers and Sherpas.

Beyond all these, we have said; the priority in our goals is to have one person to reach to the summit in a safe mode, after that, to have a woman to reach to the summit and lastly, to have at least a person to reach to the summit without the oxygen support.

Not much left; what do you say?

May 9th, 2006
Advanced Base Camp
ImageWe returned to 6400 meters two days ago. This time, we saw the difficulties of the climb almost in all aspects. The way from the camp at 7000 meters up to the camp at 7900 meters requires a very backbreaking climb. Long and steep snow couloir and the decreasing amount of oxygen available to human body in every step, is straining the body. Shortly, we fully understood that we are climbing to the highest point of the world once more. Three of us have reached to the camp at 7900 meters, and the most of the rest have reached to 7500 meters. After we concluded our climb, we returned to 7000 meters, stayed there a night and returned back to the advanced base camp the next day.

ImageWe will spend the next few days by resting and observing the weather conditions. When we and the weather will be ready, the conditions will be ready to try for the summit. The route and the camps at the high altitudes are ready. In other words, the fixed rope lines are reached up to the summit, the tents are put at the camping sites and the oxygen bottles are assembled at the 8300 meters. When the team and the weather is ready, our plan shortly is; firstly, to reach up to the North Col at 7000 meters, then the next day to climb up to the camp at 7900 meters and the next day to reach up to 8300 meters. We are thinking that we will need oxygen support from then on. For this reason we will start using oxygen support from the hours we will spend at the 8300 camp. The ones who will try the summit without the oxygen support will be determined by then. As we have repeated a several times before, the main issue in this decision will be the safety of all the members of the team. If the decision to climb without the oxygen support appears in a way to risk the climb of the rest, our priority will be to reach the summit in a safe way. After spending a few hours at the 8300 meters, we will depart for the summit at midnight.

All these really mean a few tough days. We have to rest very well, eat very well, and concentrate mentally very well. We have already taken some support from the Chinese team today. We were invited for the lunch to the Chinese camp. We had some good food and chat. We are solving the resting part in our tents. As for the real part, we mean the mental preparation; we will need your support at that point…

May 7th, 2006

ImageOn May 6th, the team climbed up to North Col, and spent the night there. Their backpacks were rather heavy since they were carrying, but haven't used,  oxygen bottles. Today, May 7th, they went to Camp 2 and then returned back to North Col  to sleep. Tomorrow, they will return back to advanced base camp. We are constantly in radio contact and everyone is in great condition.

Hakan Kocakulak

May 5th, 2006
Advanced Base Camp
ImageWe came to our higher altitudes back again… The happy days at the lower altitudes did not last long. We again started to deal with the climbing plans, the breathing techniques and the amount of liquid to take. This time the plans are a little more tensing. From now on, all the plans are towards the summit! There are many things that we have to consider. Once again the oxygen bottles, that were are not very familiar with, are in.  All the bottles are carried to the advanced base camp; now, they have to be carried to upper camps gradually. We all tried our facemasks and the regulators before the bottles are taken to the upper camps. Connecting and removing the regulators to the bottles is a troublesome task, it has to be learned very well. And also we have to be good at fitting the facemasks to our faces. It is a little hard to fit the balaclava, the facemask and the oxygen facemask all on a single face! The climbing and the upper camp usage plans also have to be settled very well other than the oxygen usage and the calculations. We will have upper camps at the 7900 and 8300 meters. The sites for the tents at these altitudes are cramped; therefore we will be closely pressed together on those nights. As for the climbing programme, we will all be climbing on the same day, but still we will be moving in pairs of two. This also has to be planned. Today we will have one or two meetings for discussing all these.

By the way, we started to be followed by the camera on our back also at the advanced base camp finally! Mustafa Temiztaş has come to 6400 meters with us. Most probably, he is the cameraman who climbed to the highest altitude from Turkey, by the time yesterday!

Tonight, we will organise a collective birthday party in order to celebrate Mustafa Temiztaş’s (May 3rd), Soner’s (May 5th) and Mustafa Cihan’s (May 8th) birthdays. But please do not tell them, cause it will be a surprise for them!!

PS: Muharrem Ertunç, all the team members are saying hello to you and to your students, please give them our regards!!

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